Thursday Tip with Hali - What is RAYON?
Thursday Tip // What is RAYON?
We often talk about fabric in two categories, natural fabrics like linen, cotton, wool, silk or synthetic fabrics like polyester, nylon and spandex/lycra. Then there is this whole other slightly ambiguous category of semi-synthetic. This is where we find rayon.
ID: a swirl of rayon fabric in a dark green/brown.
Rayon is a cellulosic fibre that originates as wood pulp from beech trees, pine, eucalyptus or bamboo (recall “rayon from bamboo” in our What is Bamboo post). The wood pulp is then put through a toxic chemical process using sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide to break the pulp down into a viscose solution. The viscose solution is forced through spinnerets to create small filaments, called “regenerated cellulose”.
ID: a glass filled with a clear solution. A syringe filled with a viscose solution is submerged in the glass and a blue fibre looking substance is being pushed out of the end of the needle.
The regenerated cellulose is spun into yarns and either woven or knit into rayon fabrics like rayon challis and (rayon from) bamboo jersey.
Rayon is often generically referred to as viscose because of the honey-like viscose solution that is produced after dissolving the wood pulp with the use of chemicals. In fact, there are other types of rayon including modal, lyocell, cupro, and Tencel. For an in depth look at the differences, environmental effects and what gives each fabric its particular properties, check out this incredibly thorough Youtube video by Merit Store (unfortunately closed captions aren’t available for this one).
Although the rayon fibres originate from a naturally occurring plant, the chemical change that is required to create the final product gives the rayon yarns the semi-synthetic/man-made designation.
Rayon was originally developed as a cheaper, more affordable fabric that would imitate hard to find silk. This fabric has been around since the 1800s and its softness and versatility along with its consumer friendly price point make it an affordable and desirable fabric for a lot of sewists.
From an environmental standpoint though, this fabric is not very kind to the earth or the textile workers who make it. The deforestation, extensive water usage, along with the toxic chemicals used in the manufacturing process releasing harmful gases and polluting waterways in surrounding areas make it one of the most misunderstood “natural” fibres in the textile world. Textile workers and people in nearby communities are also known to suffer disastrous health effects from coming in contact with the chemicals used in producing rayon.
ID: a gorgeous forest of beech trees with a bright green canopy above.
Rayon is lightweight, with an exaggerated drape and when blended with fibres like linen and cotton it gives a luxurious feel. It can be tricky to sew with so we don’t tend to recommend it, especially for beginners but it’s also a fabric we chose not to stock in the store. We would much rather suggest Tencel or Ecovero for a similar feeling fabric with a less negative environmental footprint.
Rayon’s softness can also make it quite slippery and it tends to shift around while cutting. It is best to cut on one layer if possible and keep the fabric from drooping off your table when cutting or sewing so it doesn’t stretch out.
Rayon is breathable and absorbent and takes dye very well but its absorbency also means it stains easily and tends to need dry cleaning or careful hand washing. Rayon fabric becomes weaker when wet so also lay your garment flat to dry to avoid stretching it out. Rayon wrinkles easily so a blend with cotton or linen is ideal if you prefer not to iron.
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