Thursday Tip with Katherine - Pinning
Our January Series is all about those of you new to sewing, welcome! Here are some basics about pinning that you may not know yet.
Pins come in a variety of different lengths and types. In this video we have standard ballpoint plastic head pins (the pink round head), long sharp pins for delicate fabrics (blue flower head pin) and long sharp pins for medium weight fabrics (pink/red flower head pin).
As with most things, pins tend to come in different qualities and if you can, invest in good sharp pins. Not only will they last for years, but you can sharpen them when they get dull and you won't worry about snagging your $40/m fabric on dollar store pins. Dull pins or pins with burrs on them are not unusual fresh from the package if you purchase them from the dollar store.
Pinning paper patterns to fabric:
Pins are designed to pierce fabric straight on, so you’ll have best results by pushing the pin straight through the paper and fabric and then turning to the side, then creating some pressure with another finger to push the pin through the rest of the way.
Trying to slide in your pin horizontally or diagonally will result in frustration as it won’t push through the way you’d like as it’s trying to move through too many layers at once; you run a real risk of catching fibers and creating a run or straight up holes. If you pin diagonally, you also have essentially created a way for your two fabric layers to move on a horizontal plane, and they can shift further and further apart as you continue pinning. This results in uneven fabric pieces and will show most obviously over longer seams like long sleeves or side seams. Usually what happens is you’ll arrive at the end of the seam and you’ll have an extra little bit (anywhere from 1/8”-1/4”) on one of the pieces. Oops.
Always make sure that all pieces of your pins are INSIDE the paper pattern piece or you risk nicking your rotary cutter or shears as you cut around the pattern.
So remember, pins pierce. As JVN might say, PIERCE, honey!
Pinning fabric pieces together for sewing:
As above, pins should be pierced straight through your two (or more) layers of fabric and then moved horizontally and pushed through the rest of the way. I usually start about 1/4” away from the edge of my fabric and push in, leaving the head of my pin on the outside edge of my seam.
Pinning perpendicularly to the seam line (the seam you’re about to sew with your machine) is generally best. It allows you to see the pins from each side of the piece and allows you to sew starting from either end without losing sight of your pins. You’ll be able to keep the bulk of your fabric to the left of your machine and still be able to see the heads of your pins while sewing. You could think of it like creating a T intersection with your seam. If your seam is the road, your pins will be at right angles to your road, and just like intersections, slow down when you arrive. Remove the pins as you sew.
Pins pierce perpendicular. Kk, you got it!
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