Thursday Tip with Hali - How To Sew Gathers

Thursday Tip // How To Sew Gathers (3 ways!)

It’s been a year of gathered dresses and statement sleeves. We can’t get enough! We may be late to the game with this tip but we also know that there might be someone out there who is new to sewing and this is just the type of post they need to get inspired! We love that and if that is you, we are so glad you found us!

In this post I outline three different methods of sewing gathers, each with their pros and cons and explanation of different uses. If you want the quick and concise version (in 3min 6sec), skip to the video tutorial to watch each method demonstrated in as short a video as possible with some text on screen to explain each step.

Here we go.

Method 1: Sew two lines of gathering stitches

This method works best on light to medium weight fabrics and for short sections of gathers, like on a back or front yoke of a shirt or dress, a gathered sleeve or a small ruffle. If you are gathering a large section, like a tiered skirt or maxi dress there is more risk of threads breaking but it is still possible to use this method. I find this method to be the most precise, resulting in the most even gathering.

1. Before you start sewing, set your stitch length to the longest stitch setting. On my machine it is “4”. Pull the needle and bobbin threads to give yourself 3-4 inches of threads tails before sewing. This will make adjusting the gathers much easier.

2. Sew one line of stitching inside the seam allowance. If your seam allowance is ⅝”, sew a line at ⅜”. Leave long thread tails.

3. Sew a second line of stitching outside the seam allowance. If your seam allowance is ⅝” sew a line at ¾”. Leave long thread tails.

   Optional: sew a third line of stitching inside the seam allowance for even more precise gathers.

4. Tie the bobbin threads together. This will make them easier to pull evenly. You can also cut the needle threads shorter so they are out of the way and you remember to only pull the bobbin threads.

5. Pull the bobbin threads evenly from either side and adjust gathers with your fingers.

6. Pin in place according to pattern directions. Usually starting with the edges, then the middle, adjusting gathers between pins until the gathered edge and the other pattern piece are even in length. Don’t be shy with the pins! The more pins the more even your gathers will be. Use as many as you feel comfortable with.

7. Sew the pieces together using your given seam allowance. Your seam line will be between the gathering stitches making it easy to follow as you sew.

8. Unpick the gathering stitches that show on the right side of the garment. You can also unpick the first line of gathering stitches but it isn’t necessary as they are on the inside of the garment.

Method 2: Use a piece of yarn or string and a zig zag stitch

This method is a little less precise than the first method, however, it is slightly faster to sew once you get the hang of it because it only requires one line of stitching. Sewing over the yarn can be a little tricky so it might be a good idea to practice before you do a long section of gathering on your garment. This method is great for large sections of gathering, like a tiered skirt, because there is no risk of the threads breaking and the yarn is strong enough to be pulled through a long section of fabric. Choose a good thickness of yarn that isn’t too slippery or it won’t hold the gathers in place. A cotton string/cord would also work, and many people swear by dental floss for this method as well.

1. Set your stitch type to a wide zig zag and a regular or slightly longer stitch length. If your stitches are too far apart they won’t hold the yarn well enough so do a test to see what works best for your chosen string/yarn.

2. Place the yarn under the presser foot making sure you have a bit of a tail off the end to pull later. The zig zag stitch will cross back and forth over the yarn allowing it to move freely when pulled.

3. Sew one line of stitching inside your given seam allowance being careful not to catch the yarn in your stitches. If seam allowance is ⅝” sew the zig zag at ⅜”. 

4. Pull on the ends of the yarn to gather the fabric.

5. Pin in place according to the pattern instructions, usually beginning at the edges, then the middle and adjusting the gathers in between. Use lots of pins.

6. Sew your seam at the given seam allowance.

7. Pull the yarn out and admire your gathers! Optional: unpick the zig zag stitches. If you can’t see them on the right side of your garment then it isn’t necessary to unpick them.

Method 3: Adjust needle tension

This method is quick but less precise and depending how many settings you can adjust on your machine it may be tricky to get gathers you are happy with. In a pinch it works just fine. My machine is very basic and does not have many options for adjusting tension so on the advice of the internet (a risk I was willing to take), I was able to add some needle tension by wrapping my thread around the bobbin winding tension disc before threading through the regular tension guides. ***Proceed with caution when making manual adjustments like this. Consult your sewing machine manual before making any non-standard adjustments.

1. Set your needle tension to the highest setting and use the longest stitch length.

2. Sew one line of straight stitches inside your seam allowance. The high needle tension will cause the fabric to bunch up and gather as you sew. Keep your hand behind your presser foot to catch the fabric as you sew. This works well for lightweight fabrics but you would have to test heavier fabrics to gauge whether it will gather enough for your purposes. The weight of a heavier fabric may counteract the needle tension and gravity may cause the gathers to be quite minimal. Testing on a scrap is always a good idea.

3. Pin your pieces together according to the pattern instructions, adjusting the gathers as needed. If you need more gathering, pull on the bobbin threads slightly to snug it up.

4. Sew pieces together at your given seam allowance. You may unpick the gathering stitches or leave them if they don’t show on the right side of your garment.

Now gather away! 

Do you have a favourite gathering method or a tip for precise gathering stitches you want to share, let us know in the comments.