Thursday Tip with Hali - Chain Piecing

Thursday Tip // Chain Piecing

This is a technique I learned in a sewing workshop a few years back and it forever changed how I sew. Chain piecing is typically used in quilting but can also be applied to garment sewing.

We often talk about “batch sewing” or batch cutting, which is sewing or cutting out multiple of the same garment at one time. In theory, this makes things more efficient but for some sewists it can be overwhelming to manage all those pattern pieces.

Chain piecing is another way to increase efficiency and speed up certain sewing tasks while being able to focus on just one garment. And think of the thread you will save by not having to start and stop so often!

Chain piecing, also called chain stitching, is the process of sewing multiple pieces in a row without cutting the threads in between until the very end. This type of sewing is typically used in quilting to sew multiple strips of fabric or quilt blocks together quickly. You may not have considered it before but this technique can be applied in garment sewing as well.

There are many repetitive tasks in garment sewing or tasks that require the same tools so you might consider batching these tasks together. Batching is just grouping a series of similar tasks and doing them at the same time. This can save time and energy.

For example, when sewing a simple knit t-shirt or long sleeved shirt, you usually sew a neckband piece and sometimes wrist cuff pieces and/or a hem band. Each of these pieces are sewn starting with right sides together with a seam on the short end, then folded in half with wrong sides together and then sewn onto the garment.

If you take the time to read through your pattern ahead of time you may notice that you are instructed to sew the neckband together, then attach it to the body pieces, then sew a sleeve, a cuff, then the other sleeve in the same manner etc. This is a very typical order of instructions because it allows pattern designers to explain one step in detail from start to finish and then say something to the effect of “now repeat this step with the other sleeve”. There is nothing wrong with this as it makes instructions clear and easy to follow, however, if you do the work of reading through ahead of time you may realize that some of those repetitive steps can be completed all at once. 

Using the shirt example again, you could prep your neckband, cuffs and hem band at one time by chain piecing each seam on the short side (RST), pressing the seam allowance open (or to one side if using a serger/overlocker), folding them wrong sides together and pressing again. Then when you get to the sleeve step or the hem band those pieces are all sewn together and ready to go. When chain piecing, remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam (if you are using a sewing machine); you still want to secure these seams properly even though you are sewing them in a continuous fashion.

Note: It is important to read the pattern instructions carefully before you rush into batching things together. The pattern designer may have had a reason for separating these steps out so just double check before you go ahead. Especially if you are a beginner or if it is your first time making a pattern. If it is a pattern you have made before and are comfortable with then by all means, go ahead and batch those tasks together with confidence!

Have you used chain piecing in garment sewing? We would love to hear how this technique has worked for you!