Thursday Tip // The plus-size fit tester: A step in the process of creating a size-inclusive sewing pattern

Have you ever been curious about the process of how sewing patterns achieve a more inclusive size range? Enter: The plus-size fit tester!

Let’s pause right here for a moment; I am using the term plus-size in this blog post to describe sewing pattern sizes that are approximately size 18 and up (the lower size range is approximately size 16 and below.) I know as sewists, we are more comfortable with actual body measurements than sweeping terms, and I don’t love the term plus-size, but for ease of explanation I’ll be using it as I’ve defined above.

I’m going to share my insight as a plus-size fit tester, one small but vital step in the process of creating a size-inclusive sewing pattern or expanding the size range of an existing pattern. Admittedly, there’s a lot more involved in size-inclusive patterns than just having a plus-size fit tester, but I’m going to share about my involvement in that part of the process.

First of all, why am I often chosen as a plus-size fit tester? The answer is actually quite simple: apart from my charming personality (haha), I am generally around the middle of the upper size range of a pattern and the designers who hire me are often near the middle of the lower size range. For example, if the designer is a size 8 and I am a size 24 on their size chart, the pattern can be graded up and down from each of our sizes to achieve a unified and cohesive fit across sizes from 0 to 32 or beyond.

Fit testing, whether it’s for plus-size or otherwise, is a cycle that repeats until the designer is happy with the fit. I’ve chosen to break down that cycle into three stages: toiling, providing feedback, and revising the pattern. It’s important to note here that I work with mostly independent designers. We’re not talking about the big four companies, we’re talking about the pattern designers that are doing all the designing, drafting, grading, marketing, selling and customer service entirely by themselves or with one or two people. So, let’s talk about the steps of fit testing…

Stage 1: Toiling. The designer or grader will send me the pattern and I will make a toile. At this stage, we are checking fit on my body compared to the intended fit that the designer has for the garment. For my fit tests, I sew my own toile because I work remotely from most folks, but some designers will sew the toiles themselves and work with an in person fit model.

Stage 2: Providing feedback. Unbiased feedback is important, this isn’t about whether I like the style or would wear it, this is about what the pattern designer wants it to look and feel like. I send a video at this step to show me moving, turning in a 360, walking, bending my knees and sitting. I also send clear pictures of the front, side and back views. I provide my feedback based on the intended fit and then often the designer or grader will have questions for me, such as: Is there enough ease in the crotch area when you are seated? Is the bust dart too high or low? Etc. I answer their questions to the best of my ability.

Stage 3: Revising the pattern. I don’t have a lot to do with this phase as the fit tester, but I might provide measurements if needed. For example, if a dart needs to be larger, I can measure on my toile how much would need to be pinched out and then send that measurement to the designer or grader so they can make the appropriate adjustments to the pattern.

When the cycle is completed, we start back at stage 1 with a second toile that implements the revisions. There are usually only minor revisions if any after the second round of feedback, so that’s the end of my fit tester journey. The pattern gets graded up and down from the fit tested sizes and then goes on to testing with people of all sizes (this is when you might see the ‘pattern testers needed’ posts on social media.)

In the end, it cannot be overstated that I am only one piece of the puzzle that is size-inclusivity in sewing patterns. You need a designer, a drafter, a grader (especially one who understands plus-size fit needs), technology, skills to do it all, and of course the means to get it done. Size-inclusivity in sewing patterns is a hot topic and for good reason; it can be discussed at length from many different perspectives– this is simply my perspective as a cog in the wheel.

Thank you so much for reading along to the end. I hope this provides a glimpse into my world of being a plus-size fit tester for sewing patterns. Who are your favourite size-inclusive sewing pattern designers? I’d love to know!

With gratitude,

T

[Pictured is the Tate Romper pattern by @smallmuseum_ & @jessilous_closet]