Thursday Tip with Hali - Pattern markings
Thursday Tip // Pattern Markings
We’ve been doing these tips for over a year and I can’t believe we’ve never talked specifically about pattern markings. If you are just starting out, using a sewing pattern can be intimidating and deciphering all the markings can sometimes be overwhelming. This post is a great place to start if you want to understand what you are looking at when you use a sewing pattern for the first time.
As much as it may look like all patterns are different, there are some [mostly] universal pattern markings that you can come to expect when looking at various patterns. A detailed description of different pattern markings are described below.
Patterns also have several options for sizes to choose from. It’s fairly standard for pattern companies to include a size key showing different types of solid and dotted lines to indicate different sizes. Some PDF patterns will allow you to print only the layer with the size(s) you choose which makes cutting the pattern out a little easier.
A “test square” is also a standard practice for PDF patterns. This will be a small square in the corner of one of the pages of your pattern which allows you to check that you are printing at 100% scale.
ID: A line drawing of a pants pattern piece with various markings. The markings are piece number/letter, pattern info, cutting instructions, seam allowance, grainline, lengthen/shorten lines, notches. End.
Types of pattern markings:
Piece number/letter - Indicates which piece you are cutting. There is usually a list of pattern pieces by number/letter in the pattern instructions. This is helpful to know when deciding which pieces you need to cut depending on the view you choose (if there are multiple views). It also helps when printing your pattern at home because you can pick and choose which pages to print based on which pieces you need for that particular view. If pattern companies are into saving trees they may include a list of which pages to print for each view. Props to those that do, it’s so helpful.
Pattern info - This includes the pattern company name, name of the pattern, pattern piece type (eg. back, front, sleeve etc.). If a pattern has multiple views, the pattern piece will indicate if you need to cut it for “all views” or only for some of the views.
Cutting instructions - This will indicate how many of the pieces need to be cut. Examples of this could be: cut 2 self (main fabric), cut 2 (mirrored image), cut 2 (opposites), cut one pair, cut on fold. “Mirrored image”, “opposites” and “cut one pair” all mean the same thing. If you are cutting on the fold then you can place your pattern piece and cut through two layers to achieve this. If you are cutting on one layer you can place your pattern piece, cut one and then flip the pattern piece (not the fabric) over and cut another piece. Opposites are important to make sure you have both a right and left sleeve, or a back left and back right pant piece.
Grainline - Marks the direction of the grain with a long, double sided arrow
Seam Allowance - If marked it will probably be a dotted line or more transparent, solid line. Most PDF patterns will include the seam allowance within the pattern piece already so it will not be marked separately. In this case it will say somewhere on the pattern piece or in the instructions that seam allowances are included and different seam allowances will be indicated throughout the instructions.
Lengthen/shorten lines - indicated by double parallel lines across different sections of the pattern piece. This is where you can either add length or shorten your pattern piece. These locations are chosen specifically in order to not mess with other construction points in the pattern. In the pants pattern example, the upper lines are where you would adjust the crotch length and the lower lines would be where you could add overall length to the leg of the pants.
Notches - Often marked by a small dash, a single triangle (marks the front) or double triangles (marks the back).
Other pattern markings:
Cut on fold - indicates when to cut on the fold, usually a line parallel to the folded edge with arrows pointing toward the fold.
Pocket placement - small dots, sometimes with sizes indicated near the dot for accurate placement
Buttonholes/button placement - these markings vary but most often button holes are marked by a line like this “|----------|” and the button placement might be marked with an “X” on that line or separate from that line.
Darts - two seperate lines (dart legs), that originate at the raw edge of the fabric and converge at a point which is the tip of the dart. Marked by a solid or dotted line or lines that match the varied sizing lines. The tip of the dart will be marked and then the dart legs mark how large the dart is.
Bust point - marked by an empty circle or circle with a “+” inside.