Thursday Tip // What is Cotton?

We often talk about cotton as a general term when referring to types of fabrics but, in fact, cotton is the fibre type and fabrics made with cotton can be found in a wide range of weaves and textiles. Textiles made from cotton have been around, well, pretty much forever. It is an extremely versatile fibre used in garments, home textiles, upholstery and more.

Cotton crops are grown in warm climates all over the world. Cotton plants grow like a shrub and the soft, fluffy cotton fibre is found in a protective boll which houses its seeds which then cracks open at maturity, exposing the fibres for harvest. Cotton is considered a thirsty crop and requires substantially more water than other natural fibre crops.

Cotton can be woven or knitted and also blended with a variety of other fibres to achieve the desired drape and hand of the finished fabric.

Woven cotton fabrics are typically made in a plain weave or twill weave and can be found in various weights from light to heavy weight fabrics. Woven cottons often feel stiff right off the bolt because of finishing processes that allow machines to roll the fabric securely onto the bolt or roll before it is shipped. With washing and wear cotton softens beautifully to get that really lived in feel, but it shrinks so make sure to prewash before cutting out your pattern! 

Cotton is a dream to press and easy to sew; perfect for beginners! Cotton does crease but doesn’t wrinkle as much as linen. It resists pilling and with a tight weave it can be durable and long lasting.

Types of cotton fabrics (not an exhaustive list! Cotton is so versatile):

Cotton Wovens

Lightweight cottons: Voile, Lawn, Batiste, Calico/Muslin, Chambray, Double Gauze, Broadcloth, Shirting

Medium weight cotton: Poplin, Flannel, Twill, Crepe

Heavyweight wovens: Denim, Canvas, Corduroy

Cotton can also be knitted into fabrics like jersey, rib knit, sweatshirt fleece, and french terry.

Keep in mind, 100% cotton knits, although they are knitted, will not have a lot of natural stretch. Without any spandex content, 100% cotton knits will also have very little recovery. Some patterns may require more stretch so spandex content is important to keep an eye on if the garment has negative ease, is meant to stretch over your head and/or hug your body.

Cotton fabrics of all types are great for beginner sewists, especially those that are stable with a tight weave.