Thursday Tip with Hali - Fusible Interfacing
Thursday Tip // Fusible Interfacing
Even if you are a beginner you have probably come across the term interfacing or stabilizer in sewing pattern instructions or in sewing blog posts. Interfacing comes in a variety of forms and selecting the right type for a project can be a bit intimidating for the new sewist.
Interfacing can be described as a layer added to a garment to add stability, crispness or for longevity. It can simply be an added layer of fabric like muslin or cotton sandwiched between layers of fabric. This type of application would be considered “sew-in” interfacing. Where the added layer must be hand tacked or machine basted to hold it in place. There are many different kinds of sew-in interfacing and some you can buy in yardage as well.
Beginner sewists will typically encounter patterns that recommend iron-on or fusible interfacing, so for the purposes of this post we are only going to discuss this type, it’s characteristics and how to apply it to your fabric.
Fusible interfacing comes in various weights from featherweight to heavyweight and is usually black or white in colour. It has a right side that is smooth and a wrong side that typically has computerised glue dots that melt when heated and adhere to the fabric. Fusible interfacing can be woven, non-woven or tricot (knit).
Woven interfacing is made like a woven fabric. It has a grain so keep that in mind when you purchase the amount you need and how your pieces will be placed when cutting.
ID: A hand holding a piece of white woven interfacing.
For non-woven or bonded interfacing the fibres are just fused together, kind of like felt, so there is no grainline. However, this type may rip easier in one direction than the other so you can cut your pieces accordingly for a bit more stability. This type of interfacing is usually less expensive, but the downside is it is also less stable, rips easily, can feel papery and is generally best for craft and home decor projects although depending on the desired feel and drape you can also use this kind for garments as well.
ID: A hand holding a piece of white, lightweight, non-woven interfacing with glue dots visible.
Knit or tricot interfacing works for both knit or woven fabrics, it has more drape, is softer to the touch and tends to be lighter weight. When it’s fused to a woven fabric it won’t stretch out but it will remain flexible and maintain the drape and hand feel of the fabric but with added stability.
ID: A hand holding a white piece of tricot interfacing.
Fusible interfacing is typically sold by the metre but it tends to be quite narrow, around 20”, so keep that in mind when deciding how much you need. You can also purchase fusible interfacing on very narrow rolls sometimes called stay tape or hem tape and those come in smaller widths around 1” wide. These are great for things like button plackets, hems or cutting smaller pieces for behind button holes etc.
Do I need to pre-wash interfacing?
Generally, no, however, proceed with caution. Most interfacing won’t shrink a lot from washing but often the instructions will recommend some type of prewashing. Hand washing in cold water and hanging it to dry is usually a safe bet to avoid any possible shrinkage.
How to apply fusible interfacing
Place interfacing with glue side up on an ironing surface.
Place fabric wrong side down on top of the interfacing.
Use a press cloth over the fabric to protect your iron.
Press down with your iron and hold for 5-10 seconds. Some interfacing will require steam or a damp press cloth to adhere. Other types will fuse with low heat and no steam.
Press up and down over the whole surface until all parts are fused. Don’t slide the iron around as it may cause the fabric to shift and create ripples in the interfacing.
If you sew a lot and make a variety of garments it’s probably already occurred to you to have some interfacing always on hand. When purchasing interfacing consider the types of projects you need it for. Aim for a mid range price for higher quality interfacing that will last longer through washing and wearing. It’s also wise to test a swatch of fabric with your chosen interfacing to decide whether you like the feel of the fabric after fusing it.
As always, if you have any questions feel free to send us an email. We love to hear from you and help you find what you need for your next project!