Thursday Tip // Knit Fabrics

A question we get a lot in our beginner classes is how to tell the difference between the right and wrong side of fabrics. In our Knits class we talk about identifying woven fabrics and knit fabrics, their different properties, and how to identify the wrong side from the right side. If you have ever ordered fabric from us and received a free fabric sample with your order, you can trust that the fabric label will be placed on the right side of the fabric and on grain so identifying these on your own larger piece of fabric will be that much easier.

For those that are new to identifying fabrics or if you need a refresher on some common knit garment fabrics, read on.

Knitted fabrics are created on a large knitting machine with a set of yarns that are interlooped either side to side, in a circle, or in a lengthwise direction while interacting with the needles to form a piece of fabric (In comparison, woven fabrics are made with two sets of yarns interlacing to form a piece of fabric). In an effort to keep this simple and focused on fabrics we tend to stock in the shop, we will group knit fabrics into two basic categories; weft knits and warp knits.

Weft knits are most commonly manufactured with a large circular knitting machine. The machine uses continuous yarns to produce a large length of fabric, sometimes left in a tube shape (eg. rib knits) or cut with a selvedge edge similar to woven fabrics. When you look very closely at knit fabrics they tend to look a lot like a hand-knitted sweater with noticeable “V” shapes in lengthwise columns on the right side, called wales. On the wrong side there are horizontal loops or crosswise ribs, called courses. A combination of wales and courses make up the various types of knit fabrics. Weft knit fabrics often consist of a small variety of stitches (eg. Knit, purl, rib) because of the use of one continuous yarn to knit them. Weft knits can unravel if the right thread is pulled or if you get a hole in your garment you may notice it grow over time as the continuous loops start to unravel. For this reason weft knits are not always as durable as warp knits. Some weft knit fabrics will stretch easily without needing spandex or elastic materials because of the nature of how the threads are wrapped around each other (eg. 100% cotton jersey).

Here are some common types of weft knits and their properties:

Single jersey - Vertical ribs on the front, horizontal loops on the back (if you are a knitter this is similar to the look of stockinette stitch). The right side looks flat and smooth and the back has more noticeable horizontal lines. Single jersey is usually thin and soft and is typically used for t-shirts, tshirt dresses and/or underwear. Jersey is drapey and soft and the raw edges curl very easily. The raw edges will usually curl toward the right side when you pull along the width so that’s a quick way to check that you have the right side up!

Double knit and interlock - These types of fabric are somewhat similar in that they are produced with two interlocking sheets of fabric knitted together so both sides have the same flat and smooth appearance.

1. Plain interlock - has no right or wrong side (unless printed on), doesn’t curl, some have a subtle nap so keep that in mind when cutting your pattern pieces and cut them all in the same direction

2. Double knit - made using two sets of needles, no right or wrong side, doesn’t curl, hems easily, typically has more body than interlock.

3. Rib knit - obvious vertical lines, no right or wrong side, less stable than interlock knits, can vary in the type of ribs eg.. 1x1 rib, 2x1 or 2x2 ribs etc.

Other examples of double knit fabrics are scuba; which has a monofilament layer in between the two layers and pont de roma/ponte di roma; which is very stable and has a nice drape.

French terry/Polar fleece

1. French terry - right side looks like a regular knit, the wrong side has a looped pile which sometimes snags easily. Depending on the fabric content and how it is knitted french terry can have lots of stretch in both directions or none at all.

2. Sweatshirt fleece - right side has smooth, vertical lines and the wrong side has a fuzzy pile (looped threads are cut and brushed). It doesn’t curl and has very little stretch.

3. Polar fleece - like sweatshirt fleece but on both the right and wrong side the threads are split and brushed to give you the soft texture on both front and back.

Warp knits are typically more durable than weft knits because of how they are knitted together. They are quicker to produce because many threads are knit together simultaneously across a warp beam. Warp knitting machines can produce several rolls of fabric at a time so minimum production amounts are higher which may be reflected in the price.

Two common types of warp knit fabrics:

1. Tricot - when produced without elastic/spandex materials it can be used for athletic shorts or pants and clothing that doesn’t need to form to the body. Tricot fabrics with elastic materials are commonly used for lingerie, swimwear, compression leggings, and tights.

2. Powernet (or Powermesh) - polyester or nylon fibers are mixed with elastic fibers to create a highly elastic and durable fabric with some breathability. Powernet is typically used as an accent fabric in lingerie or athletic wear or as a lining layer in swim wear and lingerie.