Thursday Tip // Pattern Tracing

One of the reasons I (Hali) love tracing patterns is because it allows me to make fit adjustments or try out a hack but with the knowledge that I still have the original pattern to fall back on if I realize I made an error or need to grade between sizes etc. Our bodies change from season to season and year to year so keeping my originals intact is one way I save myself some printing costs. 

One of the keys to make tracing worth the time is to mark EVERYTHING (related to your size). Especially as a beginner. Every marking on a pattern is useful information whether you think you need it or not. My best advice is to have a plan and make it a habit so you don’t miss anything. 

This is a breakdown of how I trace patterns:

1. Make sure your tracing paper is flat and without creases (you can iron creases in paper with a dry, low heat setting on your iron). Line up the straight edge of your paper with a straight edge on the pattern piece (if possible). This saves you having to trace at least one of the lines. Sometimes I even butt up my straight pattern pieces against each other so I only have to draw one line between the two pieces eg. waistbands, pockets, neckbands, waist ties etc. When my sewing time is limited to nap time or the dark of night, I take those short cuts where I can.

2. Write ALL the pattern piece information. Pattern company name, name of pattern, piece name (plus # or letter), size you are tracing/grading info, cutting info (eg. cut 2 main fabric).

3. Trace the grainline and lengthen it to the length of the pattern piece. Sometimes the grainline is very short so it doesn’t interfere with other size lines so feel free to lengthen it; it will help you line up your pieces more accurately on the fabric. I always trace the grainline right away so in the event that the paper shifts or you have to come back to it later then you have a great reference point to line things up again. 

4. Trace around the pattern piece. I usually start with a straight edge first because I already have my ruler in hand from drawing the grainline. Trace around the piece marking any notches as you go. Sometimes I miss them if I wait to do them all at the end so this is my strategy. 

5. Trace all additional markings eg. notches, pocket placement, button holes, lengthen/shorten lines. You may not plan to lengthen or shorten your pattern but if you are tracing anyway I say just do it all so you don’t have to go back if you change your mind later or for future versions. We’ll be covering lengthen and shorten lines and their uses in a future post so check back soon if you want to read more about those. 

A note about rulers: Rulers aren’t a necessity but I think it speeds things up for sure and makes for more accurate lines so that your pattern pieces match up better later on when it’s time to sew. A french curve is a curved ruler that can be very handy if you do a lot of tracing or pattern drafting. They come in a variety of sizes and styles and may take time to get used to but once you get the hang of it they are pretty fun. 

Another tip: Use paper scraps for tracing smaller pieces. Remember you don’t have to worry about grainline direction on your tissue paper! We are so used to cutting fabric on grain that sometimes I forget that my pattern pieces can be traced any which way. So, save your scraps!