Thursday Tip // Don’t skip stay stitching!⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
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We know this is one of those sewing steps where you might say “Nah, I’d rather not”, but here are some tips about stay stitching that may make you think twice about skipping it. Especially when sewing with shiftier fabrics like our Lyocell Twill (pictured) or Cotton Double Gauze.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
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1. Stay stitching prevents distortion of the pattern piece, especially pieces with curves or edges cut slightly on the bias (eg. neckline, armscye, shoulder seam, curved crotch seam).⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
2. Stay stitching is done on a single thickness of fabric. Use a regular stitch length or slightly shorter length and sew ⅛” away from the seamline (if seam allowance is ⅝”, stay stitch at ½”). These are permanent stitches that secure the edge of the pattern piece so it doesn’t stretch out of shape. Also, if your garment needs altering these stitches will remain after ripping a seam so your pieces will still match up again nicely. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
3. Stay stitch in the direction of the grain (see diagram). For example, on a neckline start stitching from the first shoulder to the centre front, cut threads and sew from the other shoulder to centre front. It will keep the neckline even and the correct shape.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
4. Check your tension on a scrap before stay stitching. When sewing on a single thickness you may need to adjust your tension to get straight, even stitches.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
5. There is no need to backstitch your stay stitching as the seam will be secured in later sewing.